Atricle by Nathan Fong & the written guidance of Shawn Fogg from his website.
Tejas Trax, September 2004
Subject Car: 2000 Z3 - 2.8 L Roadster Stahl Grau.
(webmaster note: applicable to most convetibles)
Background:
The history of the seam separation started at about 25,000 on the OD at the lower driver side of the window at a size about 1.5 inches long. Back then, it was no problem. I used the paint can opener to tuck back in the seam. However, as the years and thousands of miles have piled onto my ride, the seam separation has grown ever so in length. With almost 79,000 miles, the separation has stretched to a length of over half the perimeter of the window! No longer was I able to keep up tucking in the seam and keeping water out of the car.
With careful examination, you can see that the seam is not only kept in place by tucking in the edges, but with an adhesive strip between the zipper and the rubber gasket. I knew it was time to do somehting serious to stop and prevent the seam from separating.
Required Components:
(1) Separating seam – already had
(2) Paint can openers – freebies from Lowes
(1) Roll of painter's masking tape – already had
(1) Clean white cotton rag – already had
(1) Isopropyl rubbing alcohol – already had
(1) GOOP RV Adhesive Sealant Silicone – $4.80
Solution:
I remembered that Shawn Fogg, one of the Grandmasters of modification and self fixing, had repaired his separating seam. After a quick search on his website, I found it at:
http://ackthud.com/shawnfogg/topfix.htm. The main difference was that he used a different silicone adhesive sealant.
My main ingredients are listed above. The reason for the paint can opener is that they have rounded edges. One opener will be used to tuck back in the canvas top under the gasket. The rounded edges will prevent snagging onto either the rubber gasket or the canvas top. The second opener will be used to apply the adhesive. The roll of painter's masking tape is used to mask off the work area, to prevent the silicone or alcohol from reaching areas that did not need work. The rubbing alcohol is used to clean between the canvas nd the old adhesive strip. The GOOP is used to adhere the canvas to to the old adhesive strip.
Before starting, check the weather for the next day or two. It needs to be warm, about 70º F, enough to allow the adhesive to cure properly. If it is too cold, the curing will take longer or it might not work properly. Next, if you plan to work in the garage, do not smok or burn anything. The adhesive is flammable! Finally, crack open the door to the outside to obtain enough ventilation, no need for you to pass out.
Now to work:
1. Using the painter's masking tape: apply tape to the window and the canvas area. In the photo, I show the applied tape to the canvas area first.
2. Using the clean white cloth, dab a little alcohol and wipe off any dirt, dust, and old adhesive residue between the canvas and the old adhesive strip. Rub a small 6-inch length of area and then reapply using another clean section of the cloth. Keep cloth nearby to clean up lay the GOOP tube on once cleaning is done.
3. Open the GOOP tube with it's cap. One end of the cap has a point end to puncture the entrance of the tube. Make sure it is a small hole that you make. You do not need it to be any larger than an 1/8 inch
The Missiouri Valley Chapter, BMW CCA Newsletter 7
in diameter.
4. Squeeze a small amount of GOOP onto one of the paint can openers, similar to the way you lay a bead of toothpaste.
5. Apply the GOOP on the inner side of the canvas and onto the old adhesive strip. Spread it like it was butter. Continue this for the whole length of the separated seam.
6. Now, per the instructions, allow the GOOP to get tacky (7-10 minutes). The actual time will depend on the length of your seam repair.
7. Start to apply pressure from one end of the seam to the other. When applying pressure, start from the outer edge of the seam inward towards the window. Do this for 6 inches at a time. (In case you were wondering, I did not cause any of the canvas to fold upon itself. There is not enough material to cause this.)
8. Once you have gone about 6 inches, use the other clean paint can opener to tuck the canvas under the rubber gasket.
9. If any excess adhesive squeezes through, use the cloth to wipe it up.
10. Repeat this sequence throughout. Once completed, check for any air bubbles, wrinkles or excess GOOP. Remove tape and let sit for at least 20 hours to allow the GOOP to cure properly.
Additional bits of information: I decided not to drive or touch the car for at least 24 hours. I recently drove my car with the top down for about a week with no separation. Shawn Fogg, who did the original, has not had separation for at least 2 years. Let's see if I can beat that length of time.
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